Mumbai

We're only in Mumbai for 14 hours or so and I feel embarrassed to say I'm kind of glad. We've been on the relaxed version of our India tour, and I'm looking forward to the beach. It's hard to see so much poverty. We didn't go to the slums, but it's just very very poor all along the road. I guess there's some of that everywhere we've been. You've never seen children so filthy. It's really sad. I keep thinking of my friend Stacy's son, drew, and how sweet and cute he is and just thinking of him with no clothes living in a heap of trash. My mom has always said that moms around the world all want the same things for their kids, and it's sad to think that some moms have to watch their kids grow up like that.

Aside from being a little bummed about that, we've been well these last few days. Yesterday we took a taxi around town with this driver named billu who's been driving a rickshaw for 37 years. He took us to a spice market and we went to the top of a mountain to watch the sunset.

Last night we took an overnight train to Mumbai. We were sitting with a bunch if men who recently completed their train security guard recertification. They were hilarious. I went to bed early but it seems like JD had an interesting time staying up late and chatting.

We're going to try to get ourselves out to the suburbs to catch our early morning train to Goa. It's the only daytime train we're taking because it runs along the coast and its supposed to be beautiful.

Half way through!

Udaipur

Well we're really enjoying Udaipur. It's somehow much more touristy than rishikesh felt. Everyone seems to be in the pashmina, genie pants, leather shoes or tiny painting industry. But we've met nice people and the shop owners have very creative ways of getting you inside. They always tell you they don't even want you to buy anything, just have a look.

Yesterday we went to kind of a bizarre museum with puppets and the largest turban in the world (see picture) and we toured the palace museum. Can't remember the name, but it's at the top of a hill and very pretty with detailed windows and beautiful views. I felt really gross all day but JD took a million pictures.

Then we ended up on one of the many rooftops for a beer at sunset and I went to bed early while JD spent some quality time chatting with the owner of our hotel about everything in the world.

Today we went on a boat ride around the lake, had coffee, read a book together for a bit in our cushioned hotel thing and had dinner on a rooftop of a fancy hotel next door where a man served us and I had fish and chips.

We've had a nice time but the town itself is really overrun by tourists. Somehow we ran into this German couple we met at the hotel in Delhi and also the girls we rode the train with from Delhi.

I feel much better today after having a weird tummy yesterday. Glad for the medicine cabinet we brought with us. JD has been very patient.

Watching octopussy, the James Bond movie filmed in Udaipur, drinking a banana lassi and then headed to bed soon.

The picture with the blue ceiling is our hotel room. It has a little cushioned sitting area in front of the window.

Getting to Udaipur

So we wrapped up rishikesh and got on an overnight sleeper bus back to Delhi. We thought we'd get in around 7 but ended up in Delhi at 4:30 am. Thankfully a guy named suchin was also on the bus and helped us and a Czech couple get to the metro station to get to the train station to change tickets. Last go-round, we got all 3AC tickets and one 'sleeper' so we wanted to see if we could upgrade. We couldn't, but we had fun hanging out with the Czech couple for the morning while we woke up.

Metro station was a little insane when it opened at 6 am though. Just hundreds of people in line waiting to buy tokens. I took one for the team and jumped in the front of the line to get our tokens. It was a crazy morning.

Then yesterday we hired a driver, Manu, to take us around Delhi for the day. He was a little slow to warm up to us but ended up being really good. We had a few sights in mind and he took us to a few we didn't ask to see but we loved. The ghandi memorial was really nice. We asked him to take us to lunch somewhere he liked and he took us to a cafeteria outside the ghandi memorial. He showed us oh tires if his wife and son.

JDs fav was the biggest mosque in India. We climbed to the top of a tower (pictures of the view attached). They were throwing chunks of meat in the air and this pack of hawks would circle and swoop down to catch them.

Last night we took our first overnight train from Delhi to Udaipur. It was largely uneventful. I caught a cold some time yesterday and have felt a little sick all day today. We're taking it slow though. Took our first hot shower in 2 days and JD is having a suit made for him. We chose black with gray lining and a light pink accent.

Check Facebook for pictures later as we haven't taken many yet but it's very beautiful here on the lake.

Final days in rishikesh

Well it's been a quiet last few days as we've just relaxed while we're in one spot for a while before the crazy train adventure begins.

Today we booked the last third of the trip. Next week we're headed south and then the week after we're headed north to Calcutta and back west toward Delhi. We booked a plane ticket and three train tickets for $125ish each I think. Pretty amazing.

The only tiny snafu was booking through a travel agent vs the train station because he didn't have access to the tourist quota seats so we're traveling on 3AC class and sleeper class which is a little rougher than what we booked for the first leg. It's only three nights though and we're here to experience India, so. Glad it's after we've gotten used to everything a little bit though.

We also got massages at an ashram this afternoon. Got totally slathered in oil and then rubbed into oblivion. It was really nice. We're both feeling kinda sore after. Apparently JDs guy was really intense. Room service, naps and bad Indian tv tonight.

Last day in rishikesh tomorrow and then 'deluxe' overnight bus to Delhi. Hoping to do some yoga but we'll see how early I can get up.

Rishikesh

Rishikesh is very pretty and the people here are very nice. It's weird that you can only be somewhere a day and get to know people. We made friends with this man who stamps colored powder designs on your forehead. He said he'll do it for us every day.

Yesterday we walked the edge of the river and checked out all of the little shops. JD found all kinds of little presents and haggled for a very pretty scarf. He also took a dip in the Ganges. These three men were swimming in the same spot and they got quite a kick out of it. They asked to take a picture with us and one asked if he could kiss me. Firm no to that.

It's been pretty funny encountering Indian tourists who want to take pictures. JD was looking at some earrings at a shop inside and I was on the street having my picture taken with one million people. People just shove their babies in your arms. So far, two for two have started wailing.

Went to a religious ceremony at night that was very nice. Lots of singing and a fire. Hard to explain but it was nice.. until the very end when we found out my shoes had been stolen. JD carried me on his back for a while and I walked the rest barefoot. Not exactly a place you want to be barefoot when cows are roaming the streets, but I survived. Washed and sanitized my feet when we got back.

Time for breakfast. Hope everyone has a happy thanksgiving.

The longest bus trip

We didn't take very good pictures of it, but we had an insane day yesterday. Felt very India.

W started by saying goodbye to Sanjay (owner) and Claudia at our hotel. Finally figured out how to turn on the hot water though so after a proper shower, we were all geared up to go to the international bus terminal, ISBT, to get to rishikesh, just north east of us. Sanjay told us where to go on the metro and we felt pretty prepared.

So we get to what's supposed to be the 'gleaming international bus terminal' according to lp and its under construction and looks like it has been partially complete for years. Then everyone we meet keeps telling us we're in the wrong place and we need to take their taxi to a different bus station that's an hour away. Now, the guide book tells you never to trust people who tell you something has burned down or moved, so we went from bus to bus asking for rishikesh begone deciding we were truly in the wrong place.

Anyway to make a long story short, we found a really nice guy who looked it up on his phone and told us that there are three isbt stations and we wanted this other one. So finally we did get there, it was insane, fiiiiilthy, JD used a horrifying bathroom and we got on this rickety, grimey local bus to rishikesh.

7 cold, tiring hours later, we made it. It was really kind of terrible. A little girl a seat ahead of us had her head out the window the whole time which was fine until she started getting sick. We moved, but the window in the back was stuck open and Himalayan air was pretty chilly. JD was amazed that I hadn't been able to sleep on the hotel bed at all but I couldn't stay awake in his lap on the bus. Fight or flight mode? I don't know.

Anyway we're still in bed but the hotel staff are all amazingly friendly here. We're in kind of a yoga resort town on the banks of the Ganges close to where it originates (I think) or in any case, fresh enough to get in. Lots of foreigners. We had pizza for dinner w American cheese melted on top. Also paneer parantha with homemade mango pickle and a banana lassi, lemon ginger tea, freshly made lemonade with mint. Theres Wifi in the hotel which makes us both feel at home to be able to check in.

I think today the plan is supposed to be massages, a dip in the Ganges, mango lassis and a bit of yoga. But not a whole lot has been going according to plan around here, so we will see tomorrow.

No hint of Delhi belly after two days. :)

Delhi

Delhi was not as overwhelming as we had heard or imagined. Woke up to breakfast in the dining room where met a girl from Canada, Tina and one from Germany, Claudia. Tina was finishing up a trip and had lots of advice. Claudia arrived last night as well. We all ate breakfast and we headed to the train station with Claudia. We had to run across six lanes of bikes, rickshaws, buses, etc. it was a little scary but fine.

Then we spent the next four hours in the foreigners section of Delhi main station.. once we found it. The line snaked around the entire room and every 15 min or so, the entire line stood up and shifted. About half way we realized we needed to go talk to the man with a computer to pick out actual train numbers before booking.

It worked fine though and now we have tickets from Delhi to Udaipur, Mumbai, Goa and Kerala. Northwest to south. Then we'll fly from Kerala to Calcutta probably and finish the north in the final week and a half, including Agra where the Taj Mahal is.

After booking we met a nice couple from Britain and Australia and had a beer and dinner with them. It was delicious and they all made fun of me for being so nervous about eating. JD showed off our beloved steripen. (Google it, it's awesome).

Checking out tomorrow morning and heading to rishikesh in the afternoon.