Varanasi

Varanasi was intense. One of the first things we did was walk along the ghats (steps at the water) and soon enough we came to the burning ghat where bodies are cremated. Families wrap the bodies in muslin and orange fabric, carry it through the winding back alleys and to the river where the body is dipped in the Ganges to be washed and then left on the steps to dry for an hour. After, the men in the family sit for three hours while the body burns. They throw large bones like the femur and hip bones into the river. Women aren't allowed because wives used to throw themselves on the fires and they said if you cry, the souls don't go to heaven.

It was really interesting. Boats full of women and tourists watched from the river as tens of families of men sat waiting.

At the same time, you constantly have people asking you for money or wanting to tell you stories and then get a donation or sell you little flowers to float down the river 'for good karma for your family.' Our favorite was this man who hopped on our boat, demanded we take one, light it and drop it in the river before he told us how much it was. Hawkers are serious there.

We had a nice time. Found the lonely planet recommended 'blue lassi' with giant lassis in clay pots. I had pomegranate, JD had guava. We went to Muslim town and the university area. Lots and lots of Hindu temples. We must be blessed for a lifetime or two by now.

Other than that, we had delicious dosas and samosas and things in the alleys. We went on a sunset and a sunrise boat ride. We met really nice Brits and a guy from the Czech Republic who jumped in the Ganges with JD.

Now we're in the tiny town of kujarajo which isn't much more than Kama sutra temples and a dusty little tourist trap. We're going to try to change our train ticket to get out earlier but we don't know yet. This definitely isn't a place you would choose to spend three days. But if we have to, we have to.

Today we looked at the western group of 'sexy temples' as we've been calling them and at one point we had a pack of like 16 boys following us. The attention here is insane. The man who took us to our hotel from the train station literally pops out every time we step foot outside. I lost my patience with him a little bit when I was hungry and he hasn't been as bad since. Crazy day.

First three photos from Varanasi, last three from khujaraho.